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The mountain's steep faces make
it more difficult than its elevation would
Mt. Melungtse

Introduction to Melungtse
Melungtse is the highest mountain of the Rolwaling Himal in the Himalaya. Alternate names for the peak include Menlungtse, Jobo Garu (the official Tibetan name) and Qiao Ge Ru. The peak has a long summit ridge capped by the east (main) summit and the west summit, also known as Melungtse II, 7,023m. The mountain's steep faces make it more difficult than its elevation would suggest.

Location of Melungtse
Melungtse lies just north of the Nepal/Tibet border, on a western spur ridge coming out of the main north-south trending ridge of the Rolwaling Himal. To the southwest, across the Menlung Chu, lies Gauri Sankar, which, though a bit lower (7134m), is much more visible from Nepal, hence better-known. Melungtse lies about 40km west of Mount Everest.


Climbing Attempts
Melungtse was off limits to climbing until quite recently. The first attempt was in 1987, by an expedition led by Chris Bonington. In 1988, another Bonington-led British expedition succeeded in putting Andy Fanshawe and Alan Hinkes on the west summit, but did not climb the main summit. Another attempt in 1990, this time on the East Ridge of the main summit, failed well below the top.

The first ascent of the main peak came in 1992, and was an alpine style tour de force. Slovenians Marko Prezelj and Andrej Stremfelj ascended the dangerous, 2000m Southeast Face in under two and a half days up and down.

The Himalayan Index lists only one other attempt on Melungtse, a failed attempt via the North Face in 1999.

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